Backpacked to Snowgrass flats/Goat Lake counter-clockwise with day hikes to Old Snowy and Cispus Pass/Sheep Lake.

Views of Mt Adams and Mt St Helen draw the crowds at Snowgrass Flats, but the campsites with the best views in this area lack reliable water sources this late in the season. Bypass campsite and Alpine camp still have water nearby. For snowgrass, best bet for water lies south on the PCT, about a couple hundred feet south of the junction bet Snowgrass flat trail and the PCT. This water is also the last running water on the PCT for awhile when heading north (unless you plan on melting snow), if you decide to venture up to Old Snowy. 

On a fall weekday, we met plenty of hikers/backpackers in the snowgrass flats area. However, once connecting with the Lily Basin trail heading towards Goat Lake, the crowds thinned out considerably. Saw plenty of open campsites at Goat Lake, although the wind spurred us onwards towards the next main campsite, at Jordan Meadows/basin after the junction with Goat Ridge Trail. Actually, we could have stayed at Goat Lake, because the wind persisted in this area. We only spotted 2 sheltered sites behind some trees, with the rest all exposed to the wind. As mentioned in prior trip reports, load up on water, since this is the last reliable water source until the trailhead. 

Day hike via PCT to Old Snowy: FYI ice fields on the regular PCT around Old Snowy were a bit icy, but still navigable with traction poles. Suspect this was likely due to the recent colder weather, since our tent had frosted over in the night. If taking the alternate PCT route up to Old Snowy, expect plenty of snow on the trail mixed in with rocks. Didn't make it quite to the top of Old Snowy due to this, but did get clear views of Rainier, Mt St Helens, Mt Adams, and Goat Lake. Also was a bit dicey descending from Old Snowy (via the alternate PCT route) back to the regular PCT, due to the combo of steep slope and ice coating the trail. Would recommend waiting until later in the day, hopefully the snow becomes softer and allows better traction. 

Day hike via PCT to Cispus Pass/Sheep Lake: no snow, trail in great condition, plenty of water sources. Sheep Lake was a bit underwhelming, but pretty nonetheless. At Sheep Lake, turn off the PCT and venture along Nannie Ridge trail for in-your-face views of Mt Adams. 

27 cars passed us going down as we were driving up Johnson Creek Road.  (Btw, please don’t drive like a maniac on the way down.  I saw vehicles traveling 40-50 mph.  We happened to see a bear on that road.  Remember to be kind and courteous to the wildlife and your fellow human beings as you drive on FS Roads.). If you arrive at a 3 way intersection you’ve got too far.  FS 2150 will be on your left.  We decided to heed advice given on here and do the loop hike Snowgrass, Lily Basin, Goat Lake, Jordan Basin and then Goat Ridge passing trailhead Berry Patch trailhead before arriving back at Snowgrass Flats T.H.  The trail starts out in the forest, crossing an excellent bridge at Goat Creek.  There is a nice waterfall to rest at before continuing on.  There are plenty sources of water so no need to carry up a bunch of water.  You’ll see a few peekaboo views.  When you emerge from the forest you will see a sign that says “Snowgrass Flats” where someone also penciled in PCT.  To the left will be Lily Basin Trail.  Now if you’re just dayhiking and don’t feel like killing your self off take a left on Lily Basin and head up to Goat Lake- (particularly if you’re out of flower season.)  If you’re overnighting continue on.  I highly recommend hiking up to the PCT to overnight.  You’ll be tempted to stay at a few great spots along the trail but I assure you even better sites lie ahead.  You will arrive at a T where the PCT runs.  If it’s not windy go to the left and up to some epic viewpoint campsites.  If you are looking for some shelter from the elements take a right on the PCT.  The 2nd footpath to the right has an absolutely epic campsite with ridiculous, grand views of the Flats below and the mountain range in full.  Just yonder on the PCT is a great Creek for filtering water.  Prior to the sun falling we headed up the PCT towards Old Snowy Mountain to watch the sunset.  It was spectacular.  Don’t forget your headlamps for the way down.  The next morning we headed over to Cispus Basin.  For this time of year, I found Cispus Basin more appealing than Snowgrass. The hike to Cispus is relatively easy with little elevation change.  Along the way you will find other enchanting campsites on your right.  There is a beautiful waterfall just a bit past when you enter the Basin.  A great spot for a photo, water, or to just plain cool off.  But don’t stop there.  Make sure to at least go over to the farthest creek where you can see down into the valley.  A gorgeous place for a snack.  Here you can either continue on up Cispus Pass or call it a day and turn around.  Snowgrass Flats did not have any flowers still blooming but there was  flowers still in full bloom near the water sources in Cispus Basin.  We took down camp and hiked down to Lily Basin Trail and took a right following it to Goat Lake.  There are some gorgeous views to take in. A friendly reminder, please do not camp on the meadows.  They are fragile!  There are plenty of established campsites.  I thought it would take me an hour to travel to my next campsite but the rolling trail took a bit longer than that.  As I entered the last ridge before Goat Lake I watched beautiful birds of prey soaring with grand views of Mt Rainier as a backdrop.  This would make it worthy in itself.  But alas, more grandness awaits you!  There is a stunning waterfall dropping from Goat Lake.  As we approached there were about 25 mountain goats grazing in camp.  There was only one other campsite occupied.  We decided to camp at the lake and watch the goats perform incredible feats of agility.  Occasionally a mountain goat would dislodge a large rock; thus the rock thunderous decent into the lake.  It was wonderful to watch and a reminder how precarious their perch is.  I sat on the rocks alternately taking in an epic sunset and switching my gaze to the goats behind me.  If you are ambitious continue on the trail climbing Hawkeye Point for a birdeye’s view of the entire area.  The following morning we reluctantly left heading towards Jordan Basin.  A fellow hikers spotted bear here but alas we had no such luck.  Jordan Basin is a pretty spot with a few great campsites but in my opinion does not hold a candle to Goat Lake.  After Jordan Basin there is some views from Goat Ridge but it quickly becomes fairly unremarkable.  There are additional campsites along the way if there is no campsites available.  You will arrive at a fork with Trail 96 on your left or 96A on your right.  I highly encourage you to take the time and take 96A.  The little distance it adds is worth the effort.  You will see a trail on your right blocked off with a few branches.  Take this footpath.  I heard a few hikers walk past it and boy did they miss out!  At this former fire lookout you will have superb views of Mt Rainier and Mt Adams.  This is a fantastic cap to a great backpacking trip.  After the lookout you will cross a few boulder fields where if you’re quiet you can spot Pika and Marmots.  You will re-enter the forest with a couple of peekaboo views and then it is fairly unremarkable for this time of year.  I could see evidence of lupine and such but all the flowers are long since gone.  We arrived at Berry Patch T.H. and continued on 96 to go to Snowgrass Flats T.H.  I couldn’t imagine why I couldn’t find the T.H.  I walked an additional 2 miles when it was supposed to be only .6 miles!  I kept thinking, “It’ll be right around this corner.”  Yeah no.  PSA:  Hiker Trail No 96A is what you want for the parking lot.  The trail from Berry Patch is called "Horse Trail No. 96".  This was a little confusing to me.  Oh well.  Highly recommend this particularly if you can go on weekdays as this area gets very busy.  Wildlife seen:  mountain goats, marmots, pika, birds of prey, bear, snake (harmless variety) butterflies galore!

Footnote to WTA-  in your description it says 8 miles “TO” Snowgrass Flats when it’s actually the distance round trip.  You may want to alter the wording.

My friend & I left our camp on the Bypass Trail & headed up towards the PCT. (We had hiked from the Snowgrass Trailhead 4 miles to our campsite the day before.) The bugs were pretty bad on this section. Once we got on the PCT, & were out in the open, the bugs werent too bad. The vistas werent as awesome as they could have been, the sky was a little hazy. but the wildflowers were in full bloom! Paint brush, bistort, & fields of pasque flowers. Cispus Basin was beautiful. We crossed a number of streams/waterfalls, so there was plenty of water. It was fun to meet some of the PCT thru hikers & chat with them. We continued past the Basin, up to Cispus Pass. It was hot, so we found a lunch spot with a view & a breeze. The bugs did not bother us while we were eating. We could not see Mt. Adams because of the haze. The trail was in great condition, dusty & dry, but no obstacles. We returned to our campsite, where the bugs were awful, for a RT distance of 7 miles. 

It would be pretty long for a day hike from the Snowgrass Parking Lot, about 15 miles.

I am thoroughly pleased and still somewhat incredulous thinking back at the majesty of the vibrantly verdant, awesomely enormous Cispus Basin that we got to visit this weekend. From towering peaks above to delicate wildflowers below, this was one for the books as we continued to strengthen our backpack game and explored the Goat Rocks Wilderness for the first time.

Route:
We did not follow WTA's suggested loop but instead did an out and back overnight at Cispus Basin with some side tripping up and over Cispus Pass. Specifically,
Day one: From Snowgrass Trailhead, #96 Snowgrass Trail > #97 Bypass Trail > #2000 PCT southbound to Cispus Basin where we made camp. Continued up the trail to Cispus Pass for sunset and returned to camp.
Day two: From camp at Cispus Basin, PCT southbound over Cispus Pass through top of Klickitat Basin to saddle where PCT crosses back over to west side of crest again (I don't see a name anywhere) to view Mt. Adams. Returned back to camp, packed up, returned to Snowgrass Trailhead by same route we entered (PCT>Bypass>Snowgrass).

Road:
Rd. 21 and Rd. 2150, both dirt, were both generally fine. A little washboard at some points and a little mogully at others, but if you take it slowly enough as needed I'd say any vehicle could get up there easily.

Trail:
The trail (route described above) was in excellent condition, especially once we reached the PCT. The most challenging elevation gain on our route was made in the final stretch of the Snowgrass Trail before reaching the junction with the Bypass Trail. After arriving in Cispus Basin it is a fairly steady, gentle incline all the way up and around to the Pass. Just after the creek crossing on the Bypass Trail there are multiple side trails that look like inviting places to rest or camp, but are signed "Abandoned Trail" or "Rehabilitation Area" so...don't? No blowdowns or other obstacles on our route at all, besides creek and river crossings.

Crossings:
This trail has many small creeks to cross, most of them only half an inch deep if that, some of them at this point just a small ribbon of mud. Of the deeper crossings, Goat Creek (on the Snowgrass Trail) is served by a nicely built bridge. Shortly into the Bypass Trail, a 1-ft.-deep creek that is unnamed on my map has a zig-zagging set of logs to balance-beam across, only one of them slightly precarious. Entering Cispus Basin, one cascading creek with a bigger waterfall right alongside the trail is 3-4 inches deep and requires either wading or hopping across stepping stones. Finally, the Cispus River itself no longer has any "snow bridge" across it, which is fine, because it's easily waded through at only a couple inches deep if you find the right spot to cross just a few paces away from where the trail hits it.

Snow:
Our route's trail was snow free all the way to Cispus Pass. Just on the Klickitat side of the pass there is a small snow field easily crossed to continue on the PCT southbound. Another small snow patch crosses the PCT just before the next saddle. In the upper portions of Cispus Basin some snow fields line the side of the trail.

Bugs:
They were awful. Giant mosquitoes and biting flies in the daytime, tiny mosquitoes in the morning. They got a little better once gaining some elevation and heading up the Bypass Trail, but even all the way up on Cispus Pass they were ever present. On trail, you could not stop for more than a few seconds before being swarmed. Despite ample repellent, both wife and I came away with many, many bites. Reports say this is a great hike in the fall!

Other Fauna:
Saw a variety of birds, but no goats in the Goat Rocks during our waking hours. Some other hikers reported seeing about 40 on the top of a ridge the day before. Looked for but did not spot any marmot or pika (heard some). During the night we heard what we thought might have been goats coming by our camp (oops, spilled some noodle water earlier) but who knows what critters were actually out there.

Flora:
WIldflowers were abundant! Paintbrush, aster, violet, bear grass, thistle, and many more that I can't name. You see some lower down but really start to break into meadows of flowers on the Bypass Trail. In the Basin they are literally everywhere.

Views:
Amazing views all around. Hiking into Cispus Basin we were amazed at the sensation of tininess as the valley rose up all around us, silent and unmoving as we plodded our way. The basin itself is just something else to behold with cascading creeks running from all sides through lush, green meadows into a rocky canyon leading out to the greater valley below. Peaks tower overhead.

The air was a bit hazy and we saw only a faint outline of one side of Mt. Adams on the way in. Though it is in the dead center of the view out from the Basin, we did not see Mt. St. Helens until we were up at Cispus Pass for the sunset and the changing light brought its loose, faint silhouette into form over ocean-like waves of mountains upon mountains. The next morning it was gone again. Morning light was good to Mt. Adams though, and we had a beautiful vista of the mountain from the south PCT saddle leading out of the Klickitat drainage toward Sheep Lake (the saddle was our turnaround). On our way out, we saw it much more clearly rising over the far ridge than we had on the way in.

#hikingthestate

Itinerary: Started from the "Berry Patch" trailhead and hiked up Goat Ridge trail (#95) all the way to Goat Lake, then followed trail #86 down to Snowgrass flat, at which point I cut across to the PCT. I took the PCT south to Cispus Basin, found an ad hoc campsite (all the "official" ones were already taken), and pitched my tent. I then spent a leisurely afternoon strolling to Cispus Pass, taking tons of photos, and generally soaking in the breath-taking scenery. Next day, I came back on the PCT and took the bypass trail to Snowgrass Flat, and from there I took trail #96 all the way back to my car.

Conditions: There's almost no appreciable snow left on the trail, with the one exception being the shadowy cirque that contains Goat Lake (see the photo below). The trail is generally excellent, with a few mud spots and easily-crossed creeks. Bugs were obnoxious, especially by clusters of vegetation or whenever the wind died down. Though there was a plethora of campsites, most of them had at least one tent pitched, and I saw a modest meadow that had no less than 6 tents clustered together. It was easy for me - a solo backpacker- to find a suitable spot, but if you're in a larger group you might want to start hiking as early as possible in the morning.

That said, the popularity is easily explained by the abundant beauty, which hopefully comes across in the photos below. I would have loved to have spent an extra day in the wilderness and done some scrambling...maybe next year.