Bottom Line:

A nomadic day of short trails on the southern Olympic Peninsula straddling the Columbia River, from crashing surf at Cape Disappointment, to rainforest in the Quinault valley, to endless beaches and shipwrecks at the mouth of the Columbia River. The weather was certainly not "fine" but perfect to accentuate the wild and stormy nature of this coast and its history of shipwrecks. PNW beauty - outstanding!

Stats:

• Distance: ~ 4 miles over the day
• Duration: All day exploration by car and trail
• Road/Parking: Discover Pass required to park within Cape Disappointment, but kiosk for day tickets available; Oregon State Park pass needed to park within Fort Stevens State Park; lots of informal parking along the road as you head deep into Olympic National Park via the Quinault River road (BEAUTIFUL drive, rain or shine)
• Weather: WET! Driving rain for most of the day with the occasional sunny break; 30sF; strong winds at Cape Disappointment with moderate surf (forecasted at 9-12 ft); mix of rain and snow in Quinault; no real break like yesterday at Kalaloch Beach
• Trails: Drove the Quinault River valley road and stopped to explore a couple of the numerous waterfalls; Cannings  Creek inside Olympic National Park is stunning, and you can bushwhack your way upriver a distance; heading south, explored the Cape Disappointment lighthouse section of this State Park, spending a fair amount of time watching the surf at Waikiki Beach - see video; CAUTION: the beach logs and breakwater boulders are very slippery - I have a bloody shin to show for it! The trails were very muddy, and the winds strong up on the bluff; crossed the Columbia River at Astoria, visited the Columbia River Maritime Museum to learn all about the prolific shipwrecks in this area as well as WWII history, and then headed out to Fort Stevens State Park for beach walking, shipwrecks and old military installations; the spit here is many miles long but not the best weather day to hike that far! CAUTION: The spit is open to vehicles for at least part of its length 
• Takeaway: Waikiki Beach at Cape Disappointment is quite the perch for pounding surf - would like to come back to photograph on an even higher surf day, but might need to wait until next winter at this point; you can rent the lighthouse keeper cabins at North Point during the winter season for winter storm watching

Fort George Brewery in Astoria was a great place to dry out with microbrews and burgers afterwards! The Quinault Lake Lodge also has a BOGO promotion that is a screaming deal - basically $100 per night.

I spent a day at Cape Disappointment, visiting the Lewis and Clark Visitor's Center, walking to the Cape Disappointment Lighthouse, wandering to Benson Beach where I cooked my lunch (and some hot coffee) over the camp stove, and then hiking to the North Head Lighthouse and back. Since it was a rainy Saturday, the crowds were sparse. I shared the Cape Disappointment trail with a few dozen people, but never saw another person on the North Head trail. 

Both trails are in good shape although there was plenty of mud and slippery spots requiring some care. Early signs of spring were plentiful, including a few trees budding and patches of bright yellow daffodils. The Cape Disappointment Trail is certainly a good choice for families - I saw at least one person pushing a jogger along the dirt path. The North Head trail is longer, with significant ups and down which were slick in the drizzle, and would be difficult for small children or folks lacking in stamina.

One word of caution: just south of the H waymarker on the North Head trail, at around the 1/2 way point, a large branch was broken off a tree directly over the trail, hanging on by the merest of threads. It could easily come down on somebody and cause bodily harm, so keep your eyes open for that.

All in all, a nice midwinter getaway to a beautiful location, even if it was cloudy and drizzly.

Took advantage of the sunny weekend and visited with some family in Astoria, OR. On Saturday we explored the northern sections of Fort Stevens State Park (OR), where we hiked along the sand and checked out a wildlife bunker, as well as the Wreck of the Peter Iredale. The park is in good shape, popular, and not too far away from Astoria. Lots of folks were out clamming and playing in the sand.

On Sunday on the drive home we stopped at Cape Disappointment State Park (WA). I was charmed in my first visit to the park, and hope to revisit soon to try a paddle and to forage. We parked at Waikiki Beach and hiked to the southern lighthouse; while the hike is relatively short, it is fairly steep, and I regretted wearing my puffy.

Both parks felt very accessible, with some paved, or at least flat, trail options. 10/10 would visit both again soon.

This is a very short stroll to see the Cape Disappointment Lighthouse. Parked in paved lot on a wet Sunday November afternoon with only about another dozen cars.  No RR here so plan accordingly.  A sign with the trail marks the entrance - along with a temporary sign about an aggressive coyote spotted in the area (several of these signs along the route, just be aware).  The wooded trail is a little steep in places (and wet this time of year), but short. It takes you past the Coastguard station, then up a concrete incline up to the lighthouse.  Super windy at the top so hold on to your hat! We had a wet day but still wide, sweeping views of the Columbia River Bar.  

On the return we followed the side trail down to Deadman’s Cove.  It’s slick and steep here so watch your footing.  Lots of logs on the beach so plan your timing carefully not to get caught here at high tide.  Beautiful spot!

Less than 2 miles roundtrip including the excursion to Deadman's Cove. 

There are actually two lighthouses at Cape Disappointment State Park. The older one is further south and faces out to the mouth of the Columbia River. It does have an ADA trail that goes up to it and we saw a couple cars drive up it- it's maintained by the coast guard and you'll go past the post along the way. The other lighthouse is a bit further north and has had renovations done. We love seeing lighthouses- well worth it and to learn about more about the maritime history here.