If there's anything better than being up at first light, warming yourself over a small fire, drinking a cup of coffee while watching fish rise on a mountain lake, I don't know what it is. I got dropped off Chinook Pass Sunday the 22nd, spent the night at Cougar Lakes, and came out at Bumping Lake the next day, about 20 miles all told. Cougar Lakes and Swamp Lakes have a plethora of small brookies, not too hard to catch. They're suppossed to have rainbows, too, but I only caught one little out of Swamp. The portion of the PCT and American Ridge Trail I traveled are in good shape, but the Cougar Lakes and Swamp Lake trails are about as bad a tread that I have ever walked-not that that should prevent anyone from hiking them-but be forewarned. There's all kind of flagging type on the Swamp Creek Trail as if there's a plan to reroute some of it-it could sure use it.
Anuway, Cougar Lakes is in a spectacular setting, nestled in a deep valley with high rocks towering over three sides. Of course, getting there wasn't exactly ugly, with the occasional glimpses of Mount Rainier to the west and flowers blooming. On the PCT from Dewey Lakes Trail to the American Ridge Trail, the view of the American R. drainage is beautiful. American Lake, Cougar Lakes and Swamp Lakes are being revegetated, so many of the old camping sites are closed-but there are good campsites on the west of Big Cougar Lake. Mosquitoes were bad in the high country and flies were bad around Swamp and Bumping Lake.
I did manage one big fish-out of Bumping Lake-as I was walking the section of the trail right along the lake I saw some bigger fish right in by shore eating, of all things, tadpoles that were swimming along in the water, then 'WHOMP,' one less tadpole. I thought the big fish were dollies, I remember as a wee pup my dad and I catching them out of Bumping. I made a couple of casts and on about the second I could see a big fish following my spoon, he hit it, then went nuts, coming clear out of the water and jumping over a stump that stuck about a foot and a half in the water three different times. I figured that I'd never land him, given all the obstructions in the water and logs-but I slowly wore him down and landed him, a 19 inch rainbow. Pretty cool way to finish the hike.