We hiked the part from Johnston Ridge to the top of Harry's Ridge - A fantastic hike!! We had sunny skies and temps around 70. Trail is mostly dry and dusty from Johnston Ridge with only a few patches of snow, becoming increasingly snowcovered as you approach the traverse below Harry's Ridge. Harry's Ridge itself is almost entirely snowcovered, but hikeable. I used poles on the way back which made it much easier. The views from this hike are absolutely amazing!!! You can look directly into the crater on most of the hike, and by the time you reach the top of Harry's Ridge you are awarded with 360 degree views and can see both St. Helens and Adams and Hood further south (on a clear day). Wildflowers are not out yet. Make sure you bring lots of water...there is no shade and the sun and reflection from the snow can give you a bad sunburn (I found out the hard way!). Please see my website for more pictures: http://www.elsnab.dk/thomas/13MAY2006_1.htm

We set off for a couple of days backpacking in the Mt. Margaret backcountry during one of the most beautiful fall weather weeks in the northwest! Unfortunately, we discovered the hard way, that we had driven to the east side of the mountain for our trip when the only place to obtain backcountry camping permits is at the monument headquarters in Amboy, Wa. (few miles from Longview off of I5), or at the Coldwater and Johnson visitor centers on the westside of the mountain. This would have been a long trip back out to the interstate and back in again since the east and west side is not connected. We elected to camp at the Norway Pass trailhead for a basecamp and day hike. The night sky was brilliant the air crisp and cool. An unusual silence aroused our curiosity as we anticipated exploring this remarkable place. We headed up the lakes trai toward Norway Pass planning on what looked like a perfect 12 mile loop. A fine frost glistened on the pumice and ash that defined our trail. It didn't take many yards to realize my legs would react to this thick sandy track! There were no trees in this landscape, save for the scattered ghostly white towers of the forest this once was. Huckleberry, salmon berry, pacific willow, pearly everlasting and fireweed carpeted the forest with vibrant color. Huckleberry season was coming to a close but we managed to collect and consume handfuls of the delicious fruit, discovering that the somewhat leathery older berries were scrumptious! The deep sandy trail was a freeway for the wildlife that now inhabits the monument. We saw bear tracks and quite alot of sign, as well as elk,cat,coyote and other prints that we couldn't name. Looking for wildlife is one of our passions but we were struck by how this environment was so foreign to our senses( we travel mostly in the Olympics), the smells, the movement of the foliage, shadows, all played tricks on us. Listening to bugling elk is truely one of the most wild and thrilling sounds to hear in nature, but watching bugling elk is an awesome adventure. We were also treated to the musical calls of the cow elk, gathering calves and collecting themselves to cope with this season. A couple of hikers met us and told us of their harrowing rock clinging ledge time on the Whittier section of the loop. So we hiked up to Obsurity lake one of the many lakes in near Mt. Margaret. On the way back a couple of coyotes serenaded us, one on each side of trail, unseen, but warning each other of our passing through or maybe just to arrange a meeting place to spend the evening The day was magical. We experienced the gift of the renewal of this land, and mourned the loss that created it. The National Monument requires backcountry permits for the Mt Margaret backcountry only. All other areas are open for backpacking. Campsites are few and far between and not marked on many maps, so check with the rangers before venturing out. We discovered in a monument paper that the Whittier section of the loop trail was actually closed. There was no sign at the traihead. There is limited campgrounds close to the monument, but dispersal camping and many turnout areas off the main roads is allowed. These are more available on the south side. The monument has different protection rules than the parks, so checking with a ranger with your itinerary is a good idea.

Our indomitable leader, DL, is slowly working through the many miles of the Boundary Trail, which runs from Coldwater Creek to Mt. Adams. Starting from Elk Pass off of FR 25, this hike follows a ridge four miles east to Badger Lake (4900 ft.) and then Trail 257 1/4 mile to Trail 257A to climb 1/2 mile to Badger Peak, an old lookout site. The trail is open to motorcycles, mtn bikes, horses and hikers. We were passed by 5 motorcyclists and four bikers; there were no other hikers at all. The trail is in pretty good shape despite the motorcycles, although the tread is a bit soft in some areas. The soil is intermixed heavily with pumice, sand and ash from recent eruptions of Mt. St. Helens. The mountain can be glimpsed periodically through the thick woods that carpet the ridge. There were lots of plump huckleberries along the way to satisfy cravings. The trail goes up and down climbing gradually to the lake. There is a junction here, with the Boundary Trail heading off towards Craggy Peak, cross the Dark Divide and eventually to Council Bluff, near Mt. Adams. We chose a side trail to Badger Peak, which climbed steeply to 5664' and 360 degree views of the entire Dark Divide, Mt. St. Helens, Adams, Rainier, the Goat Rocks and distant Mt. Hood. The summit is a bit airy, so exercise caution on the pumice-covered trail to the top. Views do include the numerous clear-cuts and roads which scar the area. The demarcation between the Blast Zone and the surviving forest is also evident towards St. Helens and Windy Ridge. We were blessed with sunny conditions while eating our lunch, while the valleys below were socked in by the early incursions of a cold front. By the time we reached our cars, the clouds had ascended to the pass, blocking any long distant views. Forest Road 25 makes a great drive for anyone enjoying mountain roads as it winds through the area east of St. Helens. It takes about two hours to drive from Beaver Bay to the outlet at Randle, Hwy 12. Spring-fed Badger Lake is the only water available on the route. There were some blow-downs on the Boundary Trail, minor, but one tree blocks the trail to Badger Peak and involved some climbing to get over it. There were tons of huckleberries along the way. The occasional buzzing by flies and yellow jackets bothered some of the hikers, but most bugs are gone for the season.

Hiked Boundary Trail #1 from the Johnston Ridge Observatory to Harry's Ridge. Stopping by the observatory is a fine idea since the movie describes how the geology you see along the hike was created by the events of the eruption (plus you get a free administrative pass when you show them your NW Forest Pass card). In less than one hour from observatory (just after you pass the section lovingly labeled ""caution - steep and very narrow trail"") you reach a viewpoint of Spirit Lake and a very good view of the crater (better than at observatory). Another hour lands you on top of Harry's Ridge (off on a marked side trail) that has the best vantage of the crater. Hiking there at mid-day (such as I did) is not the best move since you're looking into the sun. Trail in good condition (and few people past the 20 minute point) and no biting bugs (but plagues of locusts that to walk through).

One advantage of the St. Helens area is that it melts out earlier than other parts of the Washington Cascades. Even so, with this cool spring the Johnson Ridge Observatory Road was not open this past weekend. It was okay for us, well prepared Mountaineers. We had a sunny day and for most of the day, the trail almost to ourselves. The trailhead is located off of Highway 504, and starts out on the Hummocks Trail, in the valley below the Coldwater Visitors Center. After 1/2 mile, the trails split. The Hummocks Trail (2.2 miles) is great for children, family groups and beginning hikers. The Boundary Trail wanders through the hummocky terrain, with views over the N. Fk. Toutle and the amazing debris left from the mudslide off of St. Helens and Spirit Lake. Small lakes have been formed by the hummocks and the area is now populated with colonies of red-winged blackbirds, horsetails, iris, reeds, willows, cottonwoods and alder. The little hills are covered with a thick carpet of grassy turf, where they aren't covered with emerging wildflowers and shrubs. Everywhere there were signs of deer and elk. We saw 3 black-tails, a couple of Golden-Mantled ground squirrels and lots of small birds. The trail to Johnson Ridge is about 4.3 miles in length, with approximately 1600 feet gain. There are some areas with exposure, where the loose volcanic soils have slipped. Parts are rocky, but the path is for the most part well graded and easy walking. The views are astounding of St. Helens, the surrounding blast zone, the lakes, ridges and valleys carved by stupendous forces of nature. It brings to home in a real personal way the vitality of our beautiful planet. One caution on any of the trails in the blast zone: Bring lots of water. Hikers are not allowed to travel off trail in this area and there are no substantial creeks that cross the trail. Since there is no cover at all, the sun and wind exposure can be tremendous. We struggled uphill against mighty gusts, which dropped as we returned in the afternoon. I saw red-flowered currant, some pussywillows and alder catkins in bloom. The wildflowers will be late this year, but were emerging onto the scene. Huckleberry, kinnicknick and elderberry bushes were especially evident on open slopes, as well as Oregon Grape, penstemon, fireweed and lupine. Bring water, your best buddies and a flower book and enjoy the emerging miracle of life. This trip can be done downhill with a car shuttle from the Observatory when the road is open.