Last weekend's 45th anniversary of the May 18, 1980 eruption brought back a flood of memories to this wanna-be volcanologist, so I took advantage of a perfect weather window to go explore the blast zone once again. As most are aware Highway 504 to Johnston Ridge Observatory is closed just past Coldwater Lake due to a road washout two years ago, but you can still get to the observatory (closed) via the Boundary West and Hummocks trail. I reached the Hummocks trail parking lot at 8:30am, and several other cars were parked there already. The first 1/2 mile of the hike is on the Hummocks Trail Loop, then from there the Boundary West trail breaks off and begins a gentle climb up Johnston Ridge after traveling through more of the eruption/avalanche deposits.

There is almost no shade on this trail, so keep that in mind. On the positive side though the trail is never steep and the views just keep getting better as you climb. It's ten miles roundtrip to reach the observatory, but honestly I've done six-mile hikes that were harder than this. I've read previous reports mentioning treacherous sections, but I never encountered any spots that I would consider particularly sketchy or dangerous. Yes there are places where a slip would be bad news, but as long as you've got proper hiking shoes and watch where you're putting your feet you should be fine. I'm mildly acrophobic but nothing bothered me or slowed me down.

It took me two hours to reach Loowit Viewpoint, mostly because I was constantly stopping to take pictures. 20 minutes later I was at the observatory, and I have to say the place looks like the set of The Walking Dead right now. The road and parking lot is full of weeds growing out of cracks everywhere, and the complete lack of people was spooky. I did find a few couples relaxing on benches in the viewing areas at the top, and I found one of my own to take a snack break. While there I got out my binoculars and looked down at the place where the road was washed out, and I saw absolutely no signs that they're even working on it. BTW I also viewed Loowit herself and noticed there are some really large cornices of snow hanging out into the crater, so those of you who are actually climbing it need to be careful. In addition I scanned east towards Harry's Ridge just to see if anybody had the stamina to tackle the trails east of the observatory as well, but I didn't see anyone.

On the way down I took the road back to Loowit Viewpoint just for fun, and once back on the trail I encountered quite a few people who were on their way up. Aside from people and some birds and chipmunks I saw nothing else in the way of wildlife, which was a bit of a bummer. I also had a brief moment of panic when I set the bag holding my expensive camera on a rock so I could take a drink, only for it to suddenly roll down the hill. Fortunately it hung up in a bush about 20 feet down, and risking life and limb I managed to retrieve it. Once I reached the junction with the Hummocks Trail loop I decided I still had enough spring in my step to tackle that one as well, resulting in a 12-mile hike today.

 Arrive at the Hummocks Trailhead between 6:30 and 7:00, There were only two cars in the parking lot.

The trail is in good shape. There are a few muddy patches in the lower area. There was a little snow right before the Johnston Ridge parking lot. Getting down to the parking lot was a little tricky but very doable. It looked like most people opted to take the road from Loowit Viewpoint.

When I was on the first ridge, I noticed fog filling the west Toutle Valley. It was beautiful and sunny all the way to the observatory. At the observatory I got to enjoy watching the fog fill the valley between Johnston Ridge and the mountain. 

Wildlife was active. Chipmunks were scampering around. The Golden-Mantled Ground Squirrels are out of hibernation. There were various birds around. My favorites are the Mountain Blue Birds. There were goats close to the observatory. Some were where the Eruption Trail starts up and another small group were by the amphitheater. They were eating their breakfast, so I stopped and had a snack and watched them. They did not seem to mind that I was there. I did not want to bother the goats on the eruption trail, so I went up the side from the parking lot. There were patches of snow to cross on that side of the trail.

The greatest part of the morning was the solitude and stillness. A good opportunity to pray and ponder. On my way down I only saw three people between the Observatory and Loowit Viewpoint. Then lower down on the trial I met groups sporadically. When I left around noon there were 47 cars in the parking lot. Some of those no doubt took other trails.

Today was a full-on sun-filled Sunday, and the conditions were perfect for this trail!

Starting down the shorter side of Hummocks, a few muddy patches between the ponds are the only "obstacles". Heading off on Boundary West and beginning my ascent up to the ridge, the wind really picked-up and remained a constant my whole way up to Loowit Viewpoint.

The last mile or so up to the viewpoint has light tree cover (and snow patches) and then some significant exposed faces. Came back down after a break, and had almost ZERO wind. Finished up in the longer side of Hummocks, which I don't recommend due to much more water on the trail.

The exposure really amplified the cooling wind and the heating sun! Be prepared for changing temperatures.

I arrived at the Trailhead at 10 am. There were around 15 cars in the parking lot, but I didn't feel the trail was crowded..
I barely saw 10 people in the whole hike.

The Trails starts at The Hummocks trailhead, mostly flat for the first 1.5 miles.
Then the elevation starts along with the ridge line.
There are a couple of Sketchy sections to the Loowit Viewpoint with loose rocks. A good hiking boot and pole should be fine.

Snow starts after the Loowit Viewpoint, but I took the road from the Loowit Viewpoint to the Observatory!
at the Observatory, There were a herd of Mountain Goats!🐐

I should have read the trail description better. I was so excited to do this hike based on the trip reports that I realized while trying very hard not to look down but look down for a number of sketchy sections I might have passed on this particular adventure. I would have missed out hugely, but still. Let's talk about not being scared of heights and discovering there are some heights you are scared of! The trail is so lovely for a long while and then boom, you stop cold and look around because Surely, you missed the actual trail. Nope. That tiny eroded barely there section of loose rocks with the incredibly steep drop off is your trail. That happened multiple times. The thing I was concerned about, the little 1/4 mile of snow that is even less than that now, is no biggie except for the descent to the road. The previous footprints in the snow lead to a very short but steep path to the road/JRO parking lot. I made it without slipping or falling so it's very doable. 

The cool people I came across: 

1st: a young woman I chatted with about how apocolypitc the place felt with the weeds breaking through the cracks in the road and the emptiness of the space.

2nd: a young man I commiserated with about the sketchy sections on the trail and how walking back on the road seemed very inviting desptite adding 2 more miles to the treck. He seemed shaken up by the sketchy sections and said he was taking the road back. I said there were 5 or 6 sketchy sections, but I was going to give it a go. I counted on the way back, 18 sketchy sections going back down.

3rd and 4th: Pete and Wayne sharing their Mt. St. Helens eruptions stories. That was very cool.

I won't do this one again, but it was an adventure for sure. Poles are your friends. More water than you usually pack except for the runner dude who ran the whole thing with no pack, no water. 

Few last things: 

There is no bathroom at the large lot. The gift shot/visitor center about twenty or thirty minutes back is open from 10-4pm with bathrooms.

There was a ranger keeping things legit at the parking lot when I returned. 

There were a few speed traps on I-5 in the morning. Set cruise control and don't ruin your morning.

Last thing!! The wind. Oh the wind. I swear there is some wind that carries voices. That's this wind. Be prepared that while you are traversing these sketchy sections, you might get hit with a wallup of wind. Have the layers at the ready and the hood and gloves.