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Decided to climb Big Snow Mountain as a day hike loop. A better name may be "No Snow Mountain" or "Big Granite Slab Mountain".
We went up Dingford Creek on the way in and Middle Fork Snoqualmie on the way out. We parked at the Dingford Creek trailhead. The loop was approximately 18 miles with about 5200 feet elevation. Total time was about 10 hours. Two days later and my muscles are still sore - both arms and legs. We got off route in a couple places and I needed to use more than just my legs. For me, it was definitely a Class 3 scramble in sections, but as I remember from Fred Beckey's book, he didn't even rate this route.
The trail up to Myrtle Lake was excellent. Right after crossing Myrtle Lake outlet we made a sharp right and bushwacked a bit. We headed up the first gully, which ended up not being the right gully. We traversed further to our right and headed up the next gully that led to the outlet of Big Snow Lake. From Big Snow Lake we headed right around Snowflake Lake and traversed further to the right up a ledge around the cliff band. From there we worked our way to summit. A ton of smoke in the sky. I wished I could see all my favorite mountains from Hinman, Daniels, Summit Chief, Lemah, Overcoat, Chikamin, Thompson, Red, Snoqualmie, etc. Oh well, the expansive flat granite slabs are amazing on top.
From the top we headed down the east ridge. We accidentally didn't go far enough and headed down the gully that leads to lower Hardscrabble Lake. That pushed my rock scrambling abilities to my limit, and I think what made my arms so tired. I probably didn't need to hang on so tight.
If I go up a next time, I probably would just go up and down on the Dingford Creek side, but really enjoyed seeing the huge cliffs of Big Snow from the Hardscrabble side.
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This was our third attempt to get into Big Snow Mountain (BSM). The first attempt a few years back was via lake Dorothy. We gave up well below Gold Lake due to the nastiness of the bushwhack. Last year we tried to get in from Chetwoot lake but again never made it to Gold lake due to a late start. This year we decided to come in from the middle fork side up through Hardscrabble lakes. Day one was consumed by mountain biking up 8 miles of the old road with trailer in tow with all of our gear. It took about an hour and a half. We then headed up the climbers track to the lower lake. The track begins at the old parking lot just beyond a pile of rock with a hubcap on top. The track was not actually too hard to follow. The lower part is almost a trail and appeared to be a remnant of an old road? More sketchy sections had cairns and some surveyors tape. There is a very nice camp spot at the upper end of the lower lake. Day 2 we headed up to the upper lake and then to the pass on the NE shoulder of BSM. After some dithering we decided to head down towards Gold Lake to set up camp for the night and save the climb for the next day. Camp was beautiful with tarns and waterfalls all around but the bugs were ferocious! Day three we decided to get out of bugland and headed up to BSM. It was a really beautiful clinb with tarns still melting out of the snow, long granite slabs, and abundant views the entire way. No difficulties on the climb except one snow ridge about midway up with drop off on either side and a short move to regain rock. It has probably melted out by now. That evening we returned to a knoll above upper hardscrabble lake for the night. The return the fourth day was uneventful, although we did detour to check out Goldmyer hot springs during the bike ride out. This was clearly the easiest approach to BSM of the three we tried, if you don't mind the bike ride. We saw no one until our hike out on day 4 where we saw another couple on their way up above the lower lake. They said they were on day 2 of a 7 day trip that would end up coming out La Bohn gap and out the MF trail!
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I had scrambled up Big Snow mountain 14 years prior and knew from experience that the route finding can be difficult. But as it turned out with more snow, it made for an easier route-finding experience. It was the Dingford creek route back then, and now.
We drove the road (FR56) to the Dingford creek trailhead where the road is gated. The last 5 miles is very rough but passable for all vehicles. There was another hiker, Mark, who decided he didn't want to hike the gated road to his planned destination so we asked him to join us; and so he Don and I headed up the 5.5 mile Dingford creek trail #1005 toward Myrtle lake. Just south of the lake we cut through marsh and brush to a talus field going up to a waterfall and the outlet to Big Snow lake at 4960'. While most of the water was under talus down lower, that was not the case on top. The rocks were steep, wet and more difficult to navigate over. Immediately upon reaching the top there is Big Snow lake, still partially snow covered. We traversed right and around to Snowflake lake where we set up camp. There are also some nice sites to camp at Big Snow lake but camping at Snowflake lake got us closer to our destination and access to water is easy at both lakes.
The next day Mark, who had no crampons or axe, headed down as we were heading up. We had reviewed our route information and headed up to a steep gulley after circling around Snowflake lake. Then we put our crampons on as the lower section had hard snow with a stream and rocks above. When we got to the top there was a short snowfield and then another shorter gulley. We had to take our crampons off about three times going up over rocks above the snow. After the two gullies there are two large and steep snowfields heading to the shoulder north of the top. From there it is an easy trip heading south over snow and finally the rocky summit. Spectacular views (see photo link) in all directions. 2 hours and 45 minutes up and 1 hour and 10 going down to camp.
We got back to the trail (#1005) about noon, had lunch and continued down. See a recent trip report for more details on the trail conditions. It is easy to follow but could use some logout and drainage work.
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