We did a multi-day backpacking trip from 7/2 - 7/5. Warning: serious blowdown alert on Deer Park Trail #341 (see end of report). Overall the trails were clean, clear, well maintained with no snow and just a touch of water in some places.
First, this is one of the most beautiful areas we've explored to date. The terrain is very diverse, from the burn areas to the wide-open meadows to arctic tundra to the mountainous peaks. We made the 5.5 hour drive from Seattle on 7/2 with a plan to camp overnight at the Iron Gate Trailhead getting an early start the next morning to avoid potential mid-day heat (it was a sweltering 94-degrees when we arrived in Tonasket around 6pm).
Note: When reaching the town of Loomis it took us a while to find "make a right onto County Road 9425, and after 2 miles make a left onto Forest Road 39" (per WTA directions). There are no signs for County Rd 9425, it's actually Loomis-Oroville Rd which 'bears right', then continue for approx 2 miles and go left at Toats Coulee Rd which leads to Forest Road 39. The road up as noted was filled with potholes and washboard sections but not a problem with a higher-clearance vehicle. Periodic groves of lovely Alders and white Birch trees along the way.
There are a few decent primitive campsites at Iron Gate Trailhead. When we arrived there were a handful of cars and a group/bus from the community college - natural resources. They left in the morning before we started out. There were some bugs (nothing major) and a good deal of deer and [old] coyote scat in and around the campsite (however no visitors in the night).
We started out on Boundary Tr #533 and through the burn area (from the 2006 fire) - surreal and captivating, especially with the distant peaks visible through the lifeless remnants. After about 2 miles we came upon a meadow filled with wildflowers and yellow-bellied marmots. At one point there were three marmots standing on their hind legs and squawking at us. We stopped for a bit to take in the views. By now it was already quite warm and we underestimated the difficulty of backpacking at 6-7,000 feet of elevation, our first at this level (Iron Gate starts at 6,000 feet).
We decided with the heat, the elevation and our [not so light] packs to settle and camp in a nice shady area just about .5 miles before Sunny Pass - several good water sources and places to explore. We saw one deer with a soft velvet rack starting to emerge. Throughout the late day we saw just under ten other hikers/pairs come up from Iron Gate. During the night coyotes were howling in the distance (again no visitors in the night).
The next morning we set out for Smith Lake, .8 miles on Smith Lake Tr #361, east of Boundary #533. A number of hikers had told us that Louden Lake was barely a lake right now (very shallow). We set up camp at Smith Lake situated so that it's surrounded on three sides by snow-covered peaks and rolling hills. Spectacular weather, magnificent views and my partner managed to catch a couple of small rainbow trout for sport (gently returned them to the lake). We hiked around the lake and explored the area where at the very east end, through the woods about .5 miles, the views went on forever. Two other campsites occupied by packers nearby later in the day. Bugs throughout the day but again, not too bad (by evening we did put on just a touch of Deet to keep mosquitoes at bay). The weather here can change from one moment to the next without much warning. At around 8pm it started to get cold with a bit of rain coming our way. During the night it was windy, rainy and cold but thankfully we were snug and warm in our very cozy sleeping bags. By morning the blue skies were back and the ground nearly dry. On our way out on the Smith Lake Tr #361 back to Boundary Tr #533 there was one good blowdown that happened during the night.
It was Saturday and our intention was to camp out one more night and head out early back to Iron Gate Trailhead and home. Plans don't always emerge as we envision. We decided to go back to Iron Gate via the 8.5 mile Albert Camp Tr #375. It's our first time here and we assumed (don't do that) we'd find a place to camp for the night towards the end of the trail. The trail up Horseshoe Mtn was slow going, wide open with a few good switchbacks, but all-in-all not bad even with a pack. Once we reached the top and we were met with an absolutely breathtaking 360-degree view at just under 8,000 feet. We stopped here for a while to rest, replenish and take it all in. It was so massive and mesmerizing I could barely breathe. If this could be bottled I'd call it "soulshine." - mine did.
From here the Albert Camp Tr #375 stretched out before us as far as we could see. It was relatively easy to navigate and no less striking than all that came before it, dipping back down to 5500 feet. At about 2/3 of the way on Albert Camp Tr #375 we passed through another burn area (or part of the 2006 one, not sure) but here the blackened remnants were surrounded with massive amounts of wildflowers, predominantly the red Indian Paintbrush. Magical. I kept saying it's like walking through a storybook. The entire Albert Camp Tr #375 is worth every single step, even the knee-pounding downhill switchbacks toward the end.
Our Green Trails map showed that the first (and only) water source would be at Sunday Creek where Albert Camp Tr #375 meets Deer Park Tr #341 (where we thought we'd be able to camp for the night). We were beginning to think we'd missed a turn somewhere till we finally saw the sign nailed to a tree that read "Iron Gate".
Deer Park Tr #341 - From this point it was 2 miles of pure hell for us. We missed where the trail went to Sunday Creek (before the Iron Gate sign) and we were beyond tired and low on water. By now we'd done a fairly grueling (but beautiful) 10.5 miles from Smith Lake. Yes, we know! Seriously, we're not reckless or irresponsible people. Valuable lessons learned, eh? The trail was narrow and wild for the most part, slopes and lots of wilderness debris -- no place to camp. No choice but to keep going. The trail went back up and at one point we couldn't find where it continued, thankfully a little zig-zagging and we did. If this was a day hike I'd say, "Ok, this isn't bad, we're in the wilderness after all." Then came the blowdowns. Lots and lots and lots of blowdowns. To circumvent some you could climb up the side of the trail and around, but most of them not. You either had to climb over them or crawl under them. Some were precariously scary. Did I mention we both had 40+ lb backpacks? I'm ready to laugh in hindsight as I sit here writing this and looking at the photo of my partner crawling on his hands and knees. But really, it wasn't very funny at the time, not funny at all.
About halfway in on Deer Park Tr #341 we hit what I believe was Deer Park Creek (according to the map). Water, precious water. We filled up and looked around for a place to camp, nothing. My thought was to just set up in the middle of the trail but that too was rocky and impossible. We decided to keep going back to Iron Gate Trailhead no matter what. Slow and steady. Over, under, around.
We had left Smith Lake sometime around 10am that morning. The time stamp on my last photo is 6:28pm (still on Deer Park Tr #341). It was like in the movies when I edged ahead and finally saw the junction of Deer Park Tr #341 and Boundary Tr #533. I shouted, we're here! Only .7 miles more to the trailhead. Piece of cake. Slow and steady.
I'm not exactly sure what time we made it back to the trailhead and our truck. The parking lot was full but we never saw another soul this entire day after embarking on the Albert Camp Tr #375. We drove back to Tonasket, WA and decided to get a room for the night and lucked out at the Red Apple Inn. Before checking out our room we thought we'd better find some real food. By now it was 9pm and the town was literally closed except for one of those quick stop marts. Ice cream and frozen pepperoni pizza was our best choice. We call the Red Apple Inn to ask if there was a microwave in our room. "Yes, a nice white one." he said.
So this adventure ends, for now. We can't wait to go back. Yes, you read that right. We decided to do the Pasayten Wilderness again (sans the Deer Park Tr #341). So many other trails to explore. We're planning on the end of September when the Larches are decked out in all their yellow glory. Have a great summer!